How To Remove 3m 5200
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 09-12-2007, 06:21 | #1 |
| Registered User Join Appointment: Jul 2007 Location: Tampa Bay Boat: Columbia 8.7 As You Wish III Posts: 164 | Removal of 3M 5200 Nigh a week ago used 5200 to attach and seal aux motor mountain. Now discover I need to remove. Any suggestions/past experience. Thank you |
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| 09-12-2007, 06:53 | #2 |
| Registered User Bring together Date: Jan 2007 Location: Michigan Boat: Catalina 27 Posts: 71 Images: ii | Well, you lot are probably going to get a diversity of responses. Funnily plenty, people have almost the same fervor for their calk as they do for their anchor or religion. I am assuming that enough fourth dimension has passed for the 5200 to completely cure. In that case, to remove the mountain I propose using a thin bract to CUT the 5200. I have used mechanical means (scraper and wire brush) to clean off well-nigh of the one-time caulk. Then I have resorted to "better living through chemistry", having used a number of solvents to remove the concluding remnants. One popular choice is "anti-bond" sold in many marine stores (look for the crimson cap). Be careful nigh some solvents (such as MEK) which tin can soften gelcoat, paint, the inner surface of your lungs, etc.... Removing 5200 is a hurting, simply unlike many sailors, I LIKE 5200 (in its place). Information technology's adhesive properties are fantastic. However, if I anticipate the need to remove a piece of equipment, I usually utilize 3m 4200 (a polyurethane sealant with less agglutinative properties than 5200). One final thought for the DIY cruisers out in that location. To work with any nasty chemical, I have a mask with a filter for organic solvents. It toll but $20 and information technology filters out plenty that I can't even smell some of the yucky things I have been working with. The one working encephalon cell I have left is very thankful! Good Luck! Mike |
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| 09-12-2007, 07:12 | #3 |
| Senior Cruiser   Join Appointment: Mar 2003 Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario - 48-29N 10 89-20W Boat: (Cruiser Living On Dirt) Posts: 46,935 | DeBond Corp. claims that it's DeBond Marine Formula will: __________________ |
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| 09-12-2007, 10:36 | #4 |
| Registered User Join Appointment: Oct 2005 Posts: half dozen,190 Images: iii | Gord - Previous owner used information technology to bed the flanges going through the teak decks downward to the chainplates, and so at that place's a i" x four" (x however deep.. maybe one 1/two") "cake" of the stuff on each flange. I imagine it's going to go later my paint, and the teak caulking right? |
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| 09-12-2007, 11:57 | #5 |
| Registered User Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Florida Boat: 36 gulfstar Posts: 68 | After removing the plumbing equipment and scraping away the majority of the 5200, I have institute that laquer thinner on a rag will remove the risidual sparse film of 5200 from the plumbing fixtures as well as fiberglass and metallic decks. Don't know well-nigh teak. Richard |
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| 09-12-2007, thirteen:06 | #6 |
| Registered User Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Tampa Bay Boat: Columbia 8.7 As You Wish III Posts: 164 | Many Thanks All good information. Cheers for the input. Was hoping "out D spot" would work. Now I know why Popeye has not elbows. |
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| eleven-12-2007, 18:57 | #7 |
| Registered User Bring together Engagement: Sep 2007 Location: Annapolis, Bahamas Boat: 1983 Gulfstar 36 Posts: 1,253 Images: 1 | Breaking the bail without pulling upwards the substrate (Fiberglass?) is tough. I have sucessfully used a butane torch to rut a cheap butter knife and cut into the mating surfaces as much as you can. Then pull, wedge and curse. __________________ "Aye, well.. peradventure some more vino" (Julia Kid) |
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| 12-12-2007, 08:04 | #eight |
| ֍֎֍֎֍֎֍֎֍֎ Join Date: Apr 2006 Posts: 15,133 | The debond or heated tools are probably your best bets. Just if yous tin get a Dremel or similar tool with a minor bit, and drill/grind out every bit much of the stuff every bit possible, that'southward probably going to be worth buying a Dremel kit all by itself. 5200 is forever--except when it doesn't ever bond to things, including stainless. Your 5200 is still relatively fresh, with some elbow grease and the debond (bank check the web site or read the label to see what else information technology affects) you should be able to get it off. |
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| 12-12-2007, 17:47 | #9 |
| Registered User Join Date: April 2006 Location: presently gallivanting back beyond the Pacific... Pago Pago at the moment Boat: Hylas 49 - GALLIVANTER Posts: 201 | I'yard certainly no proficient, but... apply oestrus to the mounting indicate(s) of the aux engine mount the plumbing fixtures will come off with the least ammount of effort and aggrivation. A heat gun is a better tool than a gas tourch and a difficult wood wedge certainly helps break the bond of the 5200. |
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| thirteen-03-2010, 15:35 | #x |
| Registered User Bring together Date: Dec 2008 Posts: i | utilise a sparse blade contrary cut blade from home depot to break the bond-haven't figured a adept mode to remove the caulk |
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| 13-03-2010, 16:00 | #xi |
| Registered User Join Engagement: Jun 2009 Posts: 239 | The PO loved 5200. Debond helped if it was a thin layer. If information technology was thick it wasn't much use. heated tools with a sharp blade helped, otherwise 60 or 80 grit newspaper and careful sanding was the only way I got it off |
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| xiii-03-2010, 16:02 | #12 |
| Sponsoring Vendor Join Appointment: Oct 2008 Location: Jupiter Fl USA Boat: Wharram Tiki 30 Abaco Posts: 288 | Debond is the ticket. David |
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| thirteen-03-2010, 19:30 | #13 |
| CF Adviser Join Appointment: Dec 2008 Location: sausalito Gunkhole: 14 meter sloop Posts: seven,260 | bully quote: "5200 is forever" Quote: Originally Posted by hellosailor The debond or heated tools are probably your best bets. But if you tin get a Dremel or like tool with a small-scale fleck, and drill/grind out as much of the stuff as possible, that'southward probably going to be worth buying a Dremel kit all past itself. 5200 is forever--except when information technology doesn't e'er bond to things, including stainless. Your 5200 is still relatively fresh, with some elbow grease and the debond (check the web site or read the label to see what else it affects) you should be able to get it off. +1 on Dremel tool. __________________ |
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| fourteen-03-2010, 05:35 | #14 |
| Registered User Bring together Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 764 | I used 5200 to mount a radar pole to the stern of the gunkhole. The stainless steel base was mounted to the teak cap runway with screws and the 5200. Later about a year I needed to remove that pole and had limited time for doing so. After removing the screws I tried to insert a thin blade between the base of operations and the wood, merely could just get it partially inserted no thing how much I tried and pounded. I finally gave upward and decided to merely utilize as much leverage to the pole as possible fully expecting that the teak cap rails would come out with it. It didn't and I was lucky to go a clean suspension with no damage what so ever. If I had more than time I would have tried the heating route and possibly the chemical stuff. |
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| 26-11-2013, 12:xiv | #15 |
| Registered User Join Date: Nov 2022 Posts: 1 | Re: Removal of 3M 5200 DeBond does offer a patented formula for removing 3M-5200 adhesives. Remove 3M 5200 with ease using Debond Products. |
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