How To Remove Iron Stains From Pool

stev32k

I take bad iron staining in the pool. Information technology has been building up for the last two or three years and I could not find the source until recently. I believe information technology is coming from an fe band around my underwater low-cal. I checked the ring with a magnet and it is definitely iron. So I'll have that replaced and so acid make clean the pool.

I confirmed the stains are iron by dropping three vitamin C tablets in a corner of the pool and the results were pretty dramatic. In less than an hour the expanse around the tablets went from a dirty yellow to a vivid blueish liner. It was pretty amazing. I spent a lot of time reading up on the Ascorbic Acid cleaning procedure here (thanks for posting it) and I believe I sympathise what needs to be done. I went to Jack's magic stuff site and read upward on using the sequesterant and the office I don't like is having to test and add sequesterent on a routine footing after getting the stains off. I estimate the chemic toll (Jacks Magic Blue Stuff) to be close to $i,000 per yr for my pool. That does not include the test kit ($93!) and testing supplies.

The only alternative to maintaining a sequesterent level to keep the fe in suspension, I can notice, is replacing all the water in the pool. Is that right or have I overlooked something? I don't want to but pump the pool out all at once, although I've done that in the past when the liner was replaced and did not take any problem with basis h2o or with the sides of the pool caving in. My idea is to just put a water hose in the pool and let it overflow until the atomic number 26 is beneath detection limits. I judge information technology would take two or three weeks of running the hose 24/7.

The cost of the water will be about $300 - $600 at my rates and there will exist increased costs for chlorine, CYA, and sodium bicarbonate. Those costs are worth it to me as the price of avoiding the bedevilment of having to monitor another parameter for the pool. Does this audio like a reasonable thing to practise and are at that place any alternatives?

duraleigh

Are you lot sure about your h2o costs? I did a totally anecdotal survey a year or and then ago and institute h2o rates to be about $v.00/yard gal, if I remember correctly.

Yes, you must either sequester the iron or replace the pool water......unless you have a household water softener.

Having iron in a pool is a existent PITA and you are existence pretty smart to get rid of it.

JasonLion

While a light ring can release some atomic number 26 into the pool, the quantities involved are ordinarily and so small that it wouldn't come anywhere close to staining levels. If it is releasing significant amounts of atomic number 26 it should be very dramatically rusty with metallic crumbling and flaking off over a significant area.

stev32k

My water rates are $two.68/thou and the puddle volume is near 32,000 - 35,000 gal. I'm guessing I'll need 5 - 8 turnovers to become the iron level downwardly, but that is strictly a wag.

In that location was a black area on the liner around the light. At first I idea it might be black mold or algae, but subsequently looking closer it was coming from the light ring. The ring has a thick coating of the black stuff that rubs off with your finger. I used a castor on the band and it produced a serious cloud of what I am assuming is an iron compound.

If the fe is non coming from the band I'yard at a loss as to what could exist causing the stains. The city water does non have any fe listed in the analysis they send out once a quarter and there is no other fe anywhere in the system that I can detect. Everything is either PVC, vinyl, or 316 SS.

stev32k

unless you have a household h2o softener.

Hey, now that'south an thought. I wonder if I could rent a softener(southward) and rig up a temporary pipage system to pump the puddle water though?

Edit: Hither is a moving picture of what happened when I dropped in the vitamin C tablets. The black spot is a leaf. The xanthous staining in the picture is pretty uniform over the bottom and sides of the pool. The clear blue areas are where the tablets were.

JasonLion

If the staining only occurs correct near the light ring then information technology is much more probable that the ring is the source and it is very unlikely that the iron levels in the majority pool water are high enough to cause staining. In that situation you tin about likely remove the stains with a localized ascorbic acrid handling and not need to use sequestrant or supersede water.

stev32k

The staining covers just almost the entire bottom and sides. It is not localized around the band. Practise yous accept whatsoever ideas where I might notice fe in the arrangement other than the light ring? I think you are correct about band not being the primary cause. There is so much staining that I should be able to see deep pitting and flaking like you say, but at that place is none.

Could something besides iron be causing the stains and besides be removed by Ascorbic Acid. Every bit the picture shows the vitamin C tablets cleared up stains very quickly. Would they work like that on any other stain? I become a tremendous amount of oak leaves and acorns in the puddle, simply I would think chlorine would clear up those stains? Could there be iron in any of the puddle chemicals other than HCL, or in the filter sand? I am really stumped.

JasonLion

The Vitamin C examination you did plus the yellowish color of the stains both strongly point towards iron. There are other possibilities, just they are far less probable at this signal.

Vitamin C would not have any effect on acorn/foliage stains. Organic stains from acorns and leaves answer to high FC levels.

There wouldn't be iron in any of the pool chemicals. The just mutual source is atomic number 26 in the fill up h2o, which becomes more than concentrated in the puddle over fourth dimension. However it is possible to go iron from some trees/plants growing in high iron soil, but that is rare.

DBfan187

have you tried removing the light and seeing if it'southward the niche itself that'southward causing the issue?

stev32k

In thinking well-nigh it, the city water treatment plant is almost 50 miles from our house. Even though they don't written report whatsoever fe in the arrangement at the treatment found the water could be picking up fe from the pipage before information technology gets to u.s.. Guess I need to exam our drinking water at the tap. Can anyone recommend a good atomic number 26 test kit?

stev32k

accept you tried removing the light and seeing if it'southward the niche itself that's causing the issue?

I haven't removed the light in about v years. Equally I call up the fixture looked like either stainless or polished aluminum and at that place was no sign of rust or corrosion.

POOLGOON

Once the stain is lifted yous could add together a sequestrant to agree the metal in suspension, and do some enquiry on a production call CUlator (see y'all later on...go it). they merits to have the simply production on the market place to physically remove metal from the water, and it is relatively inexpensive depending on the concentration of metal in the water to begin with. I put one in my skimmer basket and left it there for about a month and compared it to the provided indicator. All the same I didn't take stains to begin with, and had a low concentration of fe in the pool (.5ppm) according to the lamotte iron/copper exam kit. After the month I tested the water once again for metallic and the fe content was negligible ( about 0.1ppm, probabaly less). The CuLator pouch had a very light orange/brown tint to it, and i hateful VERY light. My pH remains low enough to prevent any precipitation, but I would imagine once you do the AA treatment you'll be in the same situation I was....possibly not the the same degree though.

stev32k

I believe I want to endeavour removing the iron using a h2o softener. They can be rented from a couple of different sources. The process I take in heed is this:

1. Modify the return pipage from the filter to the pool with a tee and valves to send a side stream of water to a rented softener(southward)
two. Bring the chlorine level down to zilch and add Bauqual (sp?)
three. Lower the pH to seven.0 - seven.2
4. Care for the water with 1/2 - 1.0 lb of Ascorbic Acid per 1,000 gallons of water
v. Exam the atomic number 26 level and practise not add sequesterant
6. Run the primary pump 24/7 with role of the return water going to the softeners until the iron is removed

I don't think I can use chlorine while the softeners are in service because chlorine will impairment the resin, but I'll accept to ostend that with the softener supplier. That means I'll accept to use the Baqual until the fe is removed. At a flow charge per unit of 15 gpm though the softeners I estimate it will take about two weeks to remove the iron. Does that sound virtually right?

Volition this work or have I overlooked something? Has anyone done this or something similar?

duraleigh

My first footstep would be an fe examination. Followed past another fe examination from a different source so you tin clearly define your trouble.

I didn't realize y'all could rent a water softener. The plumbing hookup and the table salt consumption is going to be a LOAD of work.

JasonLion

Boondocks water almost always has chlorine in it, and water softeners are routinely used with town water.

A greensand filter fed from a cover pump would be a simpler approach, though it could well end up being more expensive.

stev32k

I've ordered an iron test kit from Hach. Information technology should exist here next week. The rental softeners tin be inverse out with no regeneration required on site. They bring a regenerated unit in and just swap them out. I may just rent or buy a pocket-size pump and set it and the softener by the side of the pool and drop suction and belch lines over the side.

The chlorine concentration in our potable h2o is quite a bit less (.2 - .4ppm) than the levels in the pool, simply If I can use chlorine with the softener that would exist bang-up - one less chemical to buy.

I have a feeling that the atomic number 26 in the city water must come and go. Nosotros've been in this house for fifteen years and only in the by two years has fe started showing up in the puddle. This expanse has grown tremulously in merely the past few years and the city has put in many miles of new water lines. Then perhaps if they quit messing with the pipe the iron will go away. I plan to start monitoring the atomic number 26 concentrations when the kit gets hither.

Since y'all guys accept non told me information technology won't work I think I'll get started setting everything up. I don't accept a price on renting the softeners still, only they (Culligan) are supposed to become back to me Monday.

DeadAquaRite

I am dealing with this at present (Picture hither), and I strongly suspect my chiliad homo is handful fertilizer, and so blowing the granules off the pool deck rather than avoiding the pool. If you lot utilise a lawn service, consider this as a possibility.

How To Remove Iron Stains From Pool

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